Breaking Fashion Norms: The Comme des Garçons Approach
Fashion is a constantly evolving art form, one that blends creativity, self-expression, and societal reflection. However, some Comme Des Garcons brands go beyond the conventional to break barriers and rewrite the rules of the industry. One such trailblazer is Comme des Garçons, the Japanese fashion label founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969. Renowned for its avant-garde designs and non-traditional aesthetics, Comme des Garçons has become synonymous with innovation, pushing the limits of what fashion can be. This blog delves into how the Comme des Garçons approach disrupts established fashion norms and challenges our perception of style.
The Birth of an Iconoclast
Rei Kawakubo founded Comme des Garçons with the intention of creating something that stood apart from the predictable and polished offerings of mainstream fashion. Early in her career, Kawakubo was determined to take a radical approach to fashion design, focusing on abstract concepts and deconstructed forms rather than traditional notions of beauty and femininity. Her designs made a dramatic departure from the norm, offering garments that were often unconventional in cut, material, and color.
The brand’s name itself, which translates to “like boys,” was a signal that it was not interested in conforming to the traditional gendered categories of clothing. From the very start, Comme des Garçons sought to challenge the binary gender norms that governed much of the fashion world, opening the door for more inclusive and experimental expressions of fashion.
Deconstruction and Reinterpretation of Fashion
At the heart of Comme des Garçons’ approach is a commitment to deconstruction. This philosophy can be seen in the brand’s willingness to unravel the seams of traditional clothing, both literally and metaphorically. Kawakubo’s early collections, like her 1981 “Destroy” show, turned conventional fashion on its head. Models strutted the runway in clothes that were intentionally distressed, asymmetrical, and often appeared unfinished. The designs looked raw, as though they were a work-in-progress rather than the polished, perfectly tailored garments that typically dominated the fashion scene at the time.
Deconstruction, for Comme des Garçons, was not merely an aesthetic choice—it was a way of questioning the very foundations of fashion. What is the purpose of a garment, and how does its form relate to the body? By stripping clothing down to its basic components—fabric, shape, and texture—Kawakubo forced the fashion world to confront these fundamental questions. Instead of adhering to the prevailing ideals of femininity, which emphasized idealized forms and proportions, Comme des Garçons celebrated asymmetry, irregularity, and imperfection.
The Beauty of Imperfection
Unlike mainstream fashion, which often seeks perfection in terms of fit, finish, and fabric, Comme des Garçons embraces imperfection. This theme has been a constant throughout the brand’s history, from the disheveled looks of the early 1980s to the more recent collections that challenge traditional beauty standards. The concept of “flawed” or “unfinished” beauty is central to the brand’s ethos and is especially evident in its use of unconventional materials.
Kawakubo has frequently experimented with fabrics that are not typically used in high fashion, incorporating materials like rubber, metal mesh, and even paper into her collections. These materials are often rough or harsh to the touch, yet they create striking visual contrasts when combined with more delicate textures or traditional tailoring. This juxtaposition of hard and soft, raw and refined, mirrors the brand’s desire to break free from the constraints of conventional beauty and embrace the notion that fashion can be both beautiful and challenging.
Subverting Gender Norms
Another key area where Comme des Garçons has revolutionized fashion is in its approach to gender. Fashion has long been used as a means of expressing and reinforcing gender identity, but Comme des Garçons sought to eliminate the boundaries between men’s and women’s clothing. The brand’s collections are known for their fluidity, often featuring pieces that can be worn by any gender.
In fact, the line between men’s and women’s fashion has been deliberately blurred in many of Comme des Garçons’ shows. Models of all genders are often presented wearing identical or similar garments, further challenging the traditional divisions in the fashion industry. Kawakubo’s focus on unisex clothing and her rejection of gender-specific design has paved the way for a more inclusive and non-binary approach to fashion, reflecting broader societal shifts toward gender fluidity.
This approach has not only influenced the way designers think about gender in fashion but has also encouraged consumers to explore their own identities without being restricted by societal expectations. By rejecting the idea that clothing must be gendered, Comme des Garçons has empowered individuals to wear what feels authentic to them, regardless of cultural norms.
A Cultural Commentary Through Fashion
Comme des Garçons is not just a fashion brand; it’s a cultural commentary. Through its avant-garde designs, Kawakubo challenges the status quo and encourages dialogue about the role of fashion in society. The brand has often used its collections to address broader social issues, such as the politics of appearance, consumerism, and the commodification of beauty. By refusing to conform to traditional fashion standards, Comme des Garçons provides a critique of the very system it operates within.
For example, in her 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” collection, Kawakubo introduced garments that distorted and exaggerated the human form, creating exaggerated silhouettes that commented on the pressure to conform to a standardized body ideal. These collections offered a critique of society’s obsession with appearance, while also inviting a deeper reflection on the way fashion influences our perception of the self.
Enduring Influence and Legacy
Over the years, Comme des Garçons has established itself as one of the most influential fashion brands in the world. Its ability to remain true to its avant-garde roots while evolving with the times is a testament to its lasting impact on the fashion industry. The brand has inspired countless designers and artists who look to Kawakubo’s radical vision as a source of creative freedom and inspiration.
Moreover, Comme des Garçons’ influence extends far beyond the runway. The brand’s collaborations with mainstream companies such as Nike, Converse, and H&M have introduced its groundbreaking designs to a wider audience, Comme Des Garcons Hoodie bridging the gap between high fashion and streetwear. These collaborations demonstrate that Comme des Garçons’ philosophy of breaking fashion norms is not confined to the luxury sector but is accessible to people of all walks of life.
Conclusion: Fashion as an Act of Rebellion
Comme des Garçons is a brand that stands at the intersection of art, fashion, and culture. Its approach to design challenges the conventional understanding of what fashion can be, urging us to reconsider our perceptions of beauty, gender, and style. By rejecting traditional norms and embracing imperfection, Kawakubo has created a space where fashion is not just about clothes, but about ideas. The Comme des Garçons approach is a reminder that fashion is not a passive activity—it’s an active form of rebellion, an ongoing conversation, and a powerful way to express individuality.